Unplugged in The Ozarks

HEADING SOUTH ON HIGHWAY 14 out of Yellville, Arkansas, there’s an abrupt decline in civilization as the tree canopy closes in and the road begins to wind and drop toward the bridge at Dillard’s Ferry. No more gas stations. No more car washes. No improved pastures or homesteads. Just a couple of B&B inns and canoe livery shacks, opportunistic endeavors that support a clean-flowing river.

The Buffalo got its “National River” designation in 1972 when Arkansans decided that this wild and un-dammed jewel of the Ozarks needed a little extra love. From its headwaters in the Boston Mountains, the Buffalo winds for 135 miles through limestone canyons and hardwood forests before pouring into the White River below Cotter.

I first heard about the Buffalo River a few years back while trout-fishing on the White with guides Steve Dally and Ben Levin. They said that the Buffalo was the quintessential smallmouth bass experience and that someday we should plan a float.

Well, we did.

On Tuesday, May 5th, an entourage of driftboats, guides, anglers, swampers, camping gear, and cameras gathered at the gravel ramp at Rush Boat Landing on the Lower Buffalo. After stringing up rods and stowing gear, I pulled out my cellphone and noted that we were essentially off-the-grid before we even started.

No signal, no service. Nothing to do but fish, shoot photos, and float a great river with good friends.

Over the next three days we covered 26 miles of river, caught scads of fish, camped in comfort, ate like kings, and laughed ourselves silly. I should note, that we also had absolute perfect weather and exceptional river flow and clarity. I suppose that less-than-favorable conditions could have possibly dampened my enthusiasm for this trip; but short of a Biblical flood (which happened the day after we left) this fact remains: the Buffalo is an extraordinary river, and if you like flowing water and stunning scenery and zero hint of mankind to muddle the view, it should be tops on your list to experience.

While our main goal was smallmouth on the fly, we also caught crowds of longears, greenies, Ozark bass, and one longnose gar. There was no pressure to pass up shots at one specie in favor of another, and if you missed a bite because you were gazing at incredible scenery or watching a bald eagle soar overhead…hey, no biggie. The fish were hungry and the action was steady.

If you’d like to try this trip, call the boys at Dally’s Ozark Fly Fisher and get your name on the list. Buffalo departures will be limited, each spring, so don’t…uh…dally around…if you’re pining to fish it.

Thanks to all involved for pulling off an extraordinary adventure. To see the entire Buffalo River photo shoot, please click here.

Miles Nolte and John Boatwright working a bucket

Bronze beauty

Bass kibble

Gaper’s gar

No phone, no light, no motorcar…

Longear sunfish on a 3-weight

Abe and Buck tending the morning vittles

Ben Levin knows smallies like very few others

Ozark bass on a Boogle Bug

Kevin, Chad, and Miles slinging string

I’ll never tire of these

Fishing Mullahs

Bubble bass

Gabe Levin working a rock ledge

In the evenings we had sport

Gravel bar bruschetta

Fireside minner session with Chad Johnson and Kevin Vincent

Yep, that’s box wine. No glass allowed on the Buffalo. No down, either.

Whiskey hour

Goodnight, John Boy…

This entry was posted on Saturday, May 16th, 2015 at 10:34 am. It is filed under Freshwater Fishing and tagged with Arkansas, Buffalo National River, camping trip, floating, fly fishing, green sunfish, longear sunfish, longnose gar, Ozark bass, Ozarks, smallmouth bass. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.